The following process can be used to test if a switch has gone out on your switch plate. When a component stops working (heater/pump/vacuums won't start) this is the first test to perform in the diagnostic process. This test will help you determine whether the issue is a faulty switch or if it's elsewhere. WARNING: UNPLUG THE MACHINE BEFORE YOU BEGIN TO AVOID ELECTRIC SHOCK
Step 1. Begin by unbolting the switch plate or opening your machine and locating the back of the switch plate (switch plate location varies by model). Inspect the terminals in the back of the switches for loose connections or signs of overheating. If loose, refasten and test to see if this resolved the issue. If melted or burnt, replace. If no issues are visible, continue to step 2.
Step 2. Now it's time to swap test. Make a note of the orientation of the wires going to the back of the switch (taking a picture helps). Now pick another switch from a component you know is working properly. Unplug all of the wires from both switches and re-attach them to the other switch's terminals, keeping the same orientation as before.
Step 3. With the wires swapped and firmly attached, close the machine and reconnect to power. Do not touch any wires while the machine is plugged in. Test both of the switches by turning them on and off again. If the component in question starts up with the new switch, it is likely that the original switch is faulty and should be replaced. Confirm by testing the original switch to see if it will run the working component you've hooked it to, if that no longer runs it is for sure the switch. If swapping the switches does not get the component in question to work, you can rule out switch issues and move on to other possible causes.
2-position switch - E515
3-position rocker switch - E516